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Washed Rind Cheeses


We all have our own particular favourites in the cheese world. Mine are the members of the 'washed rind' family; these are soft cheeses which, instead of having a floury white rind, have an orangey-brown rind and a certain pungency about them.

During its ripening process, a cheese of this family will have its rind washed at least once a day. What liquid is used depends on the type of cheese - the more common liquids are brine, beer, and wine. Washing in brine tends to produce a cheese with a dry rind with a delicate flavour, such as Reblochon or Montagnard. Other cheeses in this family can be a little stronger, such as the classic French Livarot or Pont l'Eveque. A cheese from Burgundy, Epoisses, has a stickier skin, and is washed in marc de Bourgogne.

The pungency associated with the rind of this type of cheese comes from bacteria which are encouraged, by the washing process, to grow on the surface of the cheese. These are the 'linens' bacteria and, not surprisingly, they are the same bacteria which can be found on the soles of unwashed feet!

Some cheeses in this family are extremely strong, such as the northern French Maroilles. They were traditionally eaten in mining communities and washed down with copious draughts of beer. Maroilles can also be broken down and mixed with herbs, pepper, and paprika, and then formed into conical cheeses called Boulettes d'Avesnes. Because of the spiciness of this cheese, its red colouring, and its shape, it is also known as the Devil's Suppository!

However, as far as I know, no cheeses today are made in the traditional way of washing them in women's urine - such cheeses were known as 'fromages de cul'!
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