After fourteen years in this business we decided it was time to draw up a personal list of ‘best cheeses’. We were influenced, in our early years by award-winning makers whose cheeses had to be stocked 'de rigueur' in the best cheese shops, only to be often disappointed by their quality, price or availability. There is a collection of well known makers and retailers (whom we often refer to as 'The Cheese Mafia') but they are sometimes better at promoting themselves than producing the best cheeses of their type. Time and again we see the same makers and retailers mentioned in the national press. We thought it was time to address this issue and not only continue to sell what we regard as excellent cheeses at sensible prices, but also think of giving some awards ourselves. The UK makers we are praising have all won awards for their own cheeses but they don't make a 'song and dance' about it and quietly produce excellent, consistent products. Because it is 2004 and the hundredth anniversary of the ‘Entente Cordiale’ we have split the honours evenly between Britain and France (our shop stock has a similar split) and so our ‘Top Ten’ is actually two lists – a ‘Top Five’ British cheeses and a ‘Top Five’ French cheeses.

Our favourite cheeses had to fulfil certain criteria; for example, no matter how good a cheese is, if it is unavailable for several months of the year because the maker has not produced enough, then it will not be included in our top five. Cheeses which are too expensive, too mild, too inconsistent in quality, or which contain too much cracking or bruising, also fail to make the grade.

In reverse order, then;

British Top Five, and the reasons why we have chosen them, are:

5th place
Dewlay Crumbly Acid Lancashire – for its versatility when cooked or eaten plain; for consistency of product; for interesting texture;

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4th place
Devon Blue – for a delicious flavour and good texture; no wastage for the customer because it has no crust;

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3rd place
St Endellion Brie (which is made in Cornwall) – easy to ripen, good flavour, and an excellent size (just under one kilo) for dinner parties;

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2nd place
Devon Oke – for the wonderful smell of its crust, and for its creamy, buttery flavour;

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Winner
Quicke’s Cheeses – we do not stock them all, but must award them First Prize for the general quality of their product; for an excellent and consistent mature cheddar and a good strong smoked cheddar; for a welcome addition to the range of British goat cheeses;

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click here to order Quicke's Goat cheese - (we call it Saint Cyres)


The French Top Five, in reverse order:

5th place
Fourme d’Ambert – a good strong creamy blue; always looks most attractive on a cheese board;

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4th place
Tomme d’Aydius – excellent quality goat cheese; not ‘goaty’ in smell or flavour;

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3rd place
Delice de Bourgogne – for its sinfully rich texture and flavour; a superb foil to fruit;

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2nd place
Beaufort – for its complex, long-lasting flavour; for its versatility as a dessert cheese and as a special cheese for cooking.

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Winner
Le Montagnard – always ripens perfectly; wonderful flowing texture; exquisite flavour.

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The best way, of course, to see if you agree with our comments, is to try our choices yourself!